My holiday tip Saxon Wine Route - fantastic wine tastings, delicious winegrowers and landscapes to relax in depth
W ein aus Sachsen - real now? These were the first thoughts that flashed through my head when last autumn was a short trip to the Saxon Wine Route. To be honest, Saxony was more like a wine region ... uhhh ... less present. Wine from the Rhine, from the Mosel, from France, Italy, Spain, from me from the whole new world. But wine from Germany's East? I had to look at it. So I went to Saxony last fall. Because I have never been there. Because I'm curious. And because I love wine.
I've found a picturesque Meissen, beautiful landscapes, a centuries-old family tradition, inspiring and incredibly dedicated winemakers, open-minded people and damn tasty wines. But read for yourself (attention, it will take a little longer):
The lively woman Fritz and her steep slope on Mariaberg
Living in the middle of the vineyard - so far I had no idea that this idea could become one of my personal holiday dreams. But then I step out of one of the cute apartments on the Saxon winery Mariaberg in front of my door, standing right in the middle of the vineyard and I'm just rapt. The air, the sky, the vines, the smell of earth and spicy herbs, the vivid colors in the evening sun - and above all the unbelievable peace! A fantastic spot of earth. A big city plant like me feels directly transported to another, decelerated world. A world to enjoy and relax - for the mind and the body.
And to enjoy and relax it will turn even more intense on this evening. At dusk, we just make our way through the vineyard on the way to Mrs. Fritz, our hostess and owner of Mariaberg. A wine tasting in the great outdoors and a home-cooked dinner are waiting for us. We are curious!
When you first meet the winemaker Anja Fritz, you're almost there baffled how much fluidity and energy are in this pretty petite person. Anja is an unbelievable bundle of energy and with her good mood thwarts even the most restrained people in the twinkling of an eye. It was not until 2004 that she - together with her husband - bought the run-down Mariaberg property with its ruined house and abandoned wine management. After several years as chief secretary in boardrooms and professional stations in Mexico, Munich and Berlin, a new phase of life was to begin. A longer wine trip brought the couple to Saxony - and the idea to stay there, to buy the old property and "make something out of it".
First, the main house at the foot of the vineyard with a lot of tact renovated and converted into a residential unit for the family plus apartments for guests. The original style was preserved and cleverly combined with modern elements. Since the two did not have endless capital, they did many of the work on their own.In her ambitious project she has not deterred that her entire winery is located on a steep slope. This means that the slopes are so steep with the vines that no automated care, pest control or harvest can be done. Even the smallest steps in the vineyard have to be done manually and with physical effort.
Anja Fritz is very proud that she works in harmony with nature and with people. When a particularly large number of people fleeing from treacherous areas arrive in Germany, for example, they spontaneously found the "Team International" on Mariaberg and hired refugees. It is her great concern to give a sign of xenophobia. Even when she has to end her first engagement with a heavy heart - the employee was so traumatized as a consequence of his dramatic escape that he was unfortunately unable to work in a regulated manner - she does not give up. She is hiring two more Syrians who are now successfully strengthening her small team on Mariaberg.
Anja made it 10 years after the start. She manages - now separated from her husband - as the only Steillagen winemaker in Saxony successfully the Mariaberg and produces wines according to their own personal ideas. She has also expanded old, former farm buildings and wine storage of the estate into other very charming holiday apartments. And so that the whole thing does not get boring in the long term, she also becomes a wine queen for the region of Saxony and works very enthusiastically as a wine tour guide.
On this cozy evening she leads us with the last rays of sunshine on the Mariaberg ( That this is quite steep, our bodies can wonderfully check themselves on this occasion). Once at the top, we can taste their delicious Goldriesling and listen to their entertaining stories.
Here is an original sound with a little Anjascher Sachsen- Weinkunde directly from the Mariaberg:
Later it goes ( easily beschickert) the mountain back down into the old vaulted cellar, which was expanded as a guest room for indoor wine tasting and delicious dinner. For more of Anja's wines from Mariaberg and delicious regional sausage and cheese specialties, we talk about wine, life and all the rest. Even if it is totally comfortable and we would have preferred to stay long, we must eventually return to our apartments. The next morning starts with a hike and - presumably - even more wine.
Wine tasting and other events regularly take place on Mariaberg. Every Friday at 18:30 you can, for example, participate in the Mariaberg wine tasting with vineyard tour, cellar tour and wine bar. Here you will find all the information and appointments.
An der Spaargasse 1 - 01662 Meißen
Phone: 0170 - 4335586
The next morning, I jumped out of bed motivated. YAY! - Apparently, Saxon wine does not make a skull (the non-empirical-scientific study of a single Frollein, ne). I am looking forward to a new day in the vineyard. Anja is waiting for us right after breakfast. Of course, she also has some bottles of wine from Mariaberg in her luggage - but this is only intended for early lunch. First, we will walk for a few more kilometers through the autumn landscape on the Saxon Wine Route, learn more about winegrowing in Saxony and the history of the area.
The Saxon Wine Route itself is pleasingly manageable 55 kilometers long and can Thus also wonderful on foot or a little faster on the Elberadweg be explored.In between, you can always return to one of the many licensed wine bars or wineries and taste the products of the winemakers. The route starts in Pirna and the Saxon Switzerland, then goes via Dresden, Radebeul and Meissen to Diesbar-Seußlitz.
Beautifully planted millions of stones and 100,000 stalking
In Saxony there are very historical reasons many small wine growers with relatively tiny plots between 600 - 2,000 square meters. Typical of the region are the vineyard walls, which protect the vineyards from erosion and create a microclimate for the vines. Quite surprising is their dense colonization with mosses, lichens, herbs, succulents and cacti (yes, because here is already Mediterranean?), Which are an ideal retreat for many reptiles. So live in 15 meters vineyard wall about 120 blind sneaks - but do not worry: they live very withdrawn and prefer to stay among themselves. For although I have run past about 100,000 blindfolds, I have not seen a single one.
The vineyard walls were largely built in Saxony in the 17th century. 400 years later they have arrived at the end of their architectural life and have to be renewed gradually. For the wine growers an enormous burden, because the renewal of these vineyard walls is quite expensive. In the lower part of the vineyards one square meter wall costs 300, - Euro, in the upper area already 500, - Euro. The visible area of the walls is actually rather small - most of the walls, which are up to four meters high, are located in the ground. In addition, you need specialists who traditionally build the walls only by wedging the stones without any mortar or cement. And in such a way that they keep 400 years again.
Anja Fritz has had to move for her Steillagen vineyard, for example, so far 600,000, - € to maintain their vineyard walls and renew. For the preservation of this cultural landscape, the EU provided a subsidy fund totaling 900,000 euros last year - so you can imagine how enormous the financial burden for the individual winegrowers remains.
Our route takes us along countless kilometers of vineyard walls, through picturesque settlements with very neat front gardens and through colorful forests. And then it's finally time again: Anja gives Mariaberg wine for tasting.This walk around without additional entertainment seemed to me rather unsettling as a younger woman.
In the meantime, I can hardly imagine anything more beautiful than running through landscapes while consciously enjoying the fresh air and the peace. And most beautiful is when very few other people are where I am right now. And that's exactly what our hiking route along the Saxon Wine Route offers today. We walk relaxed through vineyards, across fields, pass old farms, discover a herd of goats, marvel at postcard motifs such as pleasure locks and white paddle steamer from above and shorten - quite daring - through an old barbed wire fence a piece of the way.
Soon We come to the next vantage point high above the Elbe with a wide view of the Saxon landscape. And - of course - our break is delicious again rounded off by a sip of refreshing Pinot Gris from the Mariaberg.
The Wine Mage with the Purple Shoe
Around noon, it's slowly coming How practical that we can come straight to the winery Schuh at the destination of our hike in the town of Coswig!
The two lovely siblings Katharina Pollmer and Matthias Schuh took over the winery of their parents just a few years ago In a secluded courtyard you can sit down for a delicious lunch - accompanied, of course, by the various excellent wines of the Schuh brand.There is an elegant farm shop with its own products and other regional specialties from Saxony such as chocolate, sausage and jam Apartments are waiting for guests in need of rest.Matthias Schuh is cleaning some tub and grins apologetically when he notices us. He had a longer evening yesterday and now needs to wake up. How very sympathetic! And so very different, as one imagines a successful winemaker in general like that. Incredibly charming and entertaining, he then tells us about his wine world, his philosophy, his ideas, his vision of wine and his plans for the future.
When he reaches into a huge vat with both his arms and When the fermenting grapes are redeployed, I am ready to pick up the skirts and jump into the tub. However, from my new life as a (auxiliary) winegrower then unfortunately nothing. We have to continue.Winery Shoe
Katharina Pollmer and Matthias Shoe
Dresdner Straße 314
Phone: +49 3523 84810
Wine and entertainment on a grand scale
After the unconventional young winegrower, it is now state. The Saxon State Winery Schloss Wackerbarth in Radebeul is the next stop on our tour. This is where wine is produced on a grand scale.
But that's not all: Schloss Wackerbarth is a destination for the whole family. The area accessible to visitors includes several walk-in vineyards, historic buildings, a very decorative terraced garden, wine stalls, cafes, a large souvenir shop as well as tours and visits to the wine cellars with an introduction to the history and present of wine production. The wine tastings are certainly especially interesting for a traditionally oriented audience and for fans of the traditional Saxon wine taste.
A visit is definitely worthwhile because of the really nice postcard photo motives. And you should not miss out on a giant piece of egg peep in the outdoor café overlooking the vineyards.
Admission is free, so many of the visitors just pass a stylish glass of wine and relax the tables in the terraced garden and bobbing cozy in the sunset.Saxon State Winery Schloss Wackerbarth
Wackerbarthstraße 1 01445 Radebeul
Tel.Shortly we enjoy the evening mood in the middle of the vineyard - then it's off to the Heia. Because tomorrow many exciting places and people are waiting for us at the Saxon Wine Road. Among other things, we will get an insight into the workshop of the famous porcelain manufactory Meissen and rock with a very old vintage bus through the area. And presumably there's a glass or two of wine involved.
But I'll tell you another time.
A big thank you to the Saxon Tourism Association for the great organization and implementation of this trip. And to Anja Hesse-Grunert for the fantastic, bloggergerechte support on the way.